For everyone following along at home: this website is worth a click if you’ve never seen it before!

Rinsing rice does wonders. Without a rice cooker you’ll need to strain it, but it’s still worth it.

1. Measure rice by volume. Let’s say 2 cups worth
2. Put into fine colendar and rinse until the water comes out clear. Mixing with your hand will speed this up. You can also do this in the pot you’re going to cook in and dump water out
3. Put strained rice in your pot
4. Add cold water. The ratio of water to rice matters a lot and varies by species of rice. The ratio will be printed on whatever container your rice came in. For Jasmin rice it’s 2 water to 1 rice, so for our two cups of rice you’ll need 4 cups of water
5. Cover, turn on medium-high heat, being to boil. Don’t go far because it will boil over when it does boil
6. Turn the heat down to low, crack the lid, and set a timer. The amount of time needed will vary based on rice. For Jasmin, 15 minutes is a good check-in time
7. Pop the lid. See water bubbling up? If yes, replace lid and come back in a few minutes. If not, use a wooden spoon to get a peek at the bottom of the pot. See water? If yes, replace lid and come back fairly soon to check again. If not, your rice is done. Turn the heat off, fluff, enjoy.

We made rice for years using this method and it is a very reliable cooking method. Rice doesn’t really leave you a lot of wiggle room though, which is where a rice cooker comes in handy. As an added bonus, some rice cookers come with water lines in them. I measure my dry rice into the cooker, rinse using the cooker, dump most of the water out, and fill to the appropriate level.

Different species of rice have very different textures and somewhat (subtle) different flavorss.

Some rice, like basmati, can be cooked using the pasta method (intentionally use way too much water and strain the excess off after the rice is cooked). I guess all rice could be cooked that way, but you would be giving up some starch.

You can always talk and express yourself! Absolutely no one will be upset if you do, assuming you don’t have wildly unpopular opinions and/or aren’t interested in rehashing politically fraught issues for the upteenth time. Find a vaguely appropriate community here and go nuts.

Building an audience over time is exactly how blogs, and publishing in general, work unless you start off with a lot of advertising or endorsements. For better or worse, there’s far more content than there is time for a large audience to read it all.

This gives you three choices:

• specialize and post in an existing community that’s aligned with that specialization. People will nearly always engage, especially if the content is good
• specialize and start your own blog. You could even try seeding it by referring people to it from already existing specialized communities. People will know what to expect content wise and keep coming back if the subject you’re talking about is interesting to them and the content is good
• don’t specialize and strike out on your own. If the content is good and you stick with it your audience will eventually grow. This will probably take more time because your audience will initially be looking for content that relates to what they’ve seen in the past, but what you’re really offering is your personality, writing style, world view, etc

Personally, if I’m looking for engagement I choose the first option.

Believe me, no one here is going to be upset if you write some interesting content. The real challenge will be whether or not your content find traction with the masses.

Both Lemmy and Reddit also favor new content over existing content, so expect decreasing engagement with a post as time wears on. This is different than a traditional forum, where a new comment will bump the whole thread.

I’ve kicked off a few good conversations here with OC, granted my posts tend to be more project/image based than what you’re thinking.

That’s nuts to me. We paid around $1.2k for our 55" about 10 years ago. 77" also feels way too big for our space, but it would be nice to jump up from 1080 and have more contrast/dynamic range, etc. I recently bought a laptop with a 3k OLED display and it’s beautiful. An OLED TV seens like it would be amazing.

Was the hot end pre-assembled or did you assemble it? I suspect you have a mechanical issue, but it might just be e-steps.

Suggestions:

Pull the nozzle off, measure say 110 mm of filament upstream of your extruder motor, make a line or attach a piece of tape, extruder 100mm, and see how close to 100mm you are. No nozzle means you can do this cold so you’ve eliminated 2 variables: a nozzle clog and temp. More detailed instructions

Once you get that sorted, do a PID tune and run the 100mm extrusion test again with your nozzle attached at say 230. Different number? My money would be on a partial nozzle clog.

Finally, temp tower. Not being able to extrude below 220 seems very weird. How fast are you trying to print?

I feel old, but also haven’t bought a TV in ages so I don’t really know the market. 55" used to be very large unless you wanted to shell out serious $$

For PETG that’s not that hot. On my i3 clone I was usually 70 bed and 230-235 nozzle. I would try a temp tower and do what looks best. Based on what you’ve said so far, temp does seem like a possible culprit.

Pandora will play a lot of repeats :( it also seems to stick to “safer” (eg popular) songs. I’ve had much better luck with YouTube music. I’ve found a lot of eclectic, but very good, music using it.

That you’re looking for is called a flange mount. If you search your favorite search engine with “2mm flange mount” you’ll find some results. I do wonder how much torque you’ll be able to transfer, but given the shaft size I suspect you’re not looking at big loads.

They are harsh chemicals and people definitely aren’t even disposong of them correctly most of the time

This is what really gets me with resin printing :(

Aluminum’s expansion coefficient is 0.000023m/C. Using my Voron, let’s say the z extrusions are 530mm long and my extrusions go from 22 °C to 55 °C. This means they grow 0.35mm. That’s in total, so the effect at the print head isn’t 0.35mm, but let’s say my gantry rides 25% of the way up. That’s 0.0875mm, which is roughly 3x the z-offset of my last print.

2.4 owner here. Happy to hear some feedback on the SV08, it looks like a pretty good deal.

Fast (printed something that took 26 hours on the Ender, and it took less than 4 on the SV08

I’m surprised you saw that much of a speed improvement, but I guess I ran my old i3 clone somewhat fast. My print times were a bit faster on my Voron, thanks to cranking speed and acceleration, but the biggest time savings came from taking advantage of the much better hot end and using a 0.6mm nozzle with thicker line widths (I can cover nearly 2.0mm with two perimeters) and thicker layers (0.3 on most prints these days).

Finicky for the initial z-offset. Heat soak the bed for 30 min at 65 degrees, then run the automatic z-offset

Were you homing z with the bed cold? If homing z involves touching the build plate, I could see this. You could probably just adjust your start g-code to accommodate this. One of the nice things about the 2.4 is that the z end stop is bolted to the frame, so as long as your print routine is consistent you can dial it pretty easily.

That said, just wait until you enclose your printer. The frame will grow in z fairly significantly as it heats up. I’ve not let my printer heat soak, printed a number of sequential parts in one print, and watched the first layer squish getting worse and worse with each sequential part. Eventually filament won’t even stick to the build plate, so you need to tweak z-offset.

I think antidepressants should pretty much always be paired with other support or lifestyle changes though.

I completely agree with you. That’s not the experience my wife has had though. Finding the right professional to work with has been a challenge for her and her general practitioner has prescribed her SSRIs on more than one occasion without providing any guidance/assistance beyond “take this to feel better”.

Others have alread hit on the reason: likely fresher kernals plus a special corn breed that’s optimized for popcorn.

At our local farmer’s market (decent sized city) there’s a guy that sells about 15 different verities of corn for popping. The sheer number of breeds of things are truly eye watering. We have a home garden, and even when we’re growing “green beans” we can be growing one of like 75 different breeds of bean that all have their own characteristics. It’s actually kind of funny that grocery stores will market which kind of apple you’re buying but they won’t do so for things like “red grapes”, “yellow peaches”, or “sweet corn”.

Very cool! What kind of optical quality do you get? The action shot on thingiverse is pretty low resolution :( what does it look like at higher magnification? Any depth of field fun going on thanks to the big sensor?

A few days ago were you printing the same part or a different one? Has anything at all changed with your setup or slicing?

Things I would go after, in order:

• clean your bed. As others have said, use warm water and dish soap with a clean sponge (or just use your fingers). Dry with paper towel or air dry. Don’t use a towel
• what does the first layer on this print look like relative to your prior prints? Does it have less squish?
• add a brim and/or mouse ears
• protect against drafts by printing your part inside a draft shield
• enclosure! You could probably leave the top open. That’s how I print PETG in my Voron

I’m personally not a fan of glue or adhesion aids, but to each their own. I’ve had the magnetic build plate pulled up, along with the print, from my bed due to warping in the past, but the warping was due to printing a big part in too cold of an environment. Once I addressed that, my problem went away.

Just an option to throw on the table: https://openscan.eu/

What are you overwhelmed with? Which option to go with? What to expect as far as post processing? Accuracy? Something else?